North cape 4000 - Trail magic

Reaching Nordkapp on 11th August 2023, via roads that crossed 10 countries, was incredibly rewarding; however, I know that such an accomplishment isn't unique. Therefore, I'd describe it as a life-changing, one-of-a-kind experience.

It's been almost a week, and I'm still processing everything. Right now, I'm focusing on eating, drinking, and sleeping. The good news is that I'm recovering well. I went for a bike ride yesterday, and apart from some pain on my sit bone, I felt good to be back.

I've been a bit slow to start writing about my experience; perhaps it's because I didn't know where to begin. As I scroll through my phone, I think about the wonderful people I met during my journey, and I realize that this is the perfect place to start.

Pawel and I in Paris after a sumptuous lunch and bit of a rest

I was fortunate to meet Pawel on this journey. Although we met on the first day, we didn't connect until Paris, where we rode together for two days, sharing accommodations, meals, and laughter. Pawel introduced me to his daughter Magda, who tracked our progress daily. Even when Pawel wasn't with me, Magda checked on me to ensure my safety, as Pawel's pace was faster than mine.

Pawel's encouragement to start cycling despite the rain taught me a valuable lesson. I was hesitant to leave the hotel due to the rain, but Pawel insisted we start, as it was going to rain all day. His push motivated me to keep going, and I continued cycling from that point on. Without Pawel's intervention, I would have likely stayed at the hotel, waiting for the rain to stop.

I met Damien as I made my way from Paris to Sterkrade. We spent half a day traveling at a similar pace, sharing moments, meals, and – more importantly – the purpose behind his journey. Damien's goal was to fulfill a promise to his mother, and I felt fortunate to have crossed paths with him. His adventurous spirit and preference for camping most nights inspired me to consider doing the same. We stayed in touch throughout the journey, checking in, chatting, and motivating each other.

I met Alessandro in Switzerland before entering France. I had no idea where I would sleep that night and was prepared to stay in a bus shelter as a last resort. Alessandro kindly offered me a room in his B&B.

Alessandro was always far ahead of me. Even when I left early the next morning, I couldn't catch up. A few days later, I finally met up with him again in Belgium. Throughout my journey, he consistently checked on my location and well-being by sending me WhatsApp messages. He was such a kind and caring person.

It was nearing 9 pm in Germany, and I was struggling to find a place to sleep. The closest hotel was 40-50 kilometers away, and the camping site was 45 minutes away – both options were unappealing. I checked booking.com and found a hotel within 3 kilometers, but it showed no availability.

As a last resort, I called the hotel and spoke to Madam Tepe. Initially, she said there were no rooms available. However, I persisted and explained my journey and exhaustion. Upon hearing that I was cycling to Nordkapp, she softened and said, "Come over here, I will see what I can do."

Miraculously, Madam Tepe managed to find a room for me where I could rest, eat, and rehydrate. She even insisted that I stay until 7 am and have breakfast before leaving. The hotel usually opened breakfast at 7:30 am, but they opened it early for us. I met an American couple there, and the three of us had breakfast together before departing.

I met Charlie at a B&B in Sweden. The supermarkets were closed and the B&B didn't offer breakfast. I was talking to Charlie about my trip and mentioned that there wouldn't be any gas stations or places to refill supplies for at least the next 100 kilometers. Charlie went to his room and returned with bread and blue cheese, offering it to me for breakfast since he was leaving at 10am and could get something from the supermarket then. I was hesitant but deep down, I wanted it. Charlie insisted, and I didn't want to miss the opportunity. That food ended up being a lifesaver, as I didn't find any gas stations until 120 kilometers later the next afternoon.

I met Mike, a kind-hearted dotwatcher, in Switzerland. He rode with me for 10 kilometers and we had some interesting conversations. I was alone, and his company gave me a much-needed emotional boost. Mike was very supportive of many riders along the route, and I felt fortunate to have met him. As I struggled with hydration and food, Mike assisted me and even spotted a vending machine when I needed it.

One of the many benefits of ultra cycling is the lifelong friendships you create. I met Filippo before Sterkrade, and from that day forward, we were always close to each other, even though we didn't ride together. We often stayed at the same hotel and would meet at check-in or breakfast the next morning. Although Filippo was a strong rider, he sometimes rode with me to keep me company. We crossed many borders together, shared breakfasts, finished at almost the same time, and enjoyed beers and laughter as we shared our funny post-race stories.

Finish line photo with Max

I met Max 90 kilometers before the finish line. The last day was extremely challenging for me; every kilometer felt like 10. Despite the difficulty, I managed to cycle 100 kilometers. Right afterward, I met Max, and we had a great conversation until the finish. He shared information about the upcoming challenges, like the long tunnels and the climbs. We maintained a similar pace and reached Nordkapp together.

We forged a strong bond throughout the last 100K, especially at the finish line and afterward, which will undoubtedly last forever. We all achieved our goal of finishing the race together. The period after the race was challenging, from organizing transport from Nordkapp to our departure from Alta, including finding boxes, clothes, bus schedules, and flight tickets. Filippo and I couldn't seem to satisfy our hunger and thirst, no matter how much we ate and drank. Saying goodbye to everyone was one of the hardest parts of the journey for me. However, I'm confident that we'll reunite at a future race.

Refueling was challenging due to the lack of gas stations for 180 kilometers. However, I encountered many amazing people who offered me hot food, a place to rest, and free water refills. They had been observing cyclists for three weeks; some called us crazy, while others regarded us with respect.

Jonnypillar was a constant source of support, regularly providing updates on the course conditions. While occasionally disheartening to hear about upcoming challenges, this information was invaluable in preparing me for what lay ahead. During moments of demotivation, Jonny's encouragement and motivation proved crucial in helping me persevere.

I had the pleasure of meeting many wonderful people along the way, including Mark, Andy, Charles, Callum, Ana, Francesco, Aina, Oscar, and Raj. Unfortunately, I didn't manage to take any photos with them, but I'll always cherish the memories of our encounters.

The days were becoming increasingly difficult, but something kept me going. I'm still not sure what it was, but it propelled me forward for 20 days and 12 hours on the course.

A simple smile can have a significant impact; the trail magic was in the acts of kindness and camaraderie encountered along the way.

 Although I spent most of the ride alone, the connections I made with other riders along the way had a profound impact on me. Sharing meals, stories, and laughter fostered a sense of community and created lasting bonds. For those few weeks, it truly felt like I had found a second family.

Many thanks for your valuable time reading my story…

Your valuable support means a world to me.

Stay tuned and watch this space for more stories.